A história do Frutas do Bosque e Laranja Lima
O ano da Pandemia foi importante na vida de todos humanos, incluindo a minha história profissional.
Desde que entrei de cabeça no mundo do café tem sido anos de muita mudança e sempre desafiadores.
Muitas vezes grandes dificuldades e o ano de 2020 não foi diferente o pior de todos em sentidos gerais, aliás diversas vezes pensei em voltar a fotografia e ao design.
Mas no começo da pandemia comecei a executar um sonho que me fez permanecer no mundo da terceira onda do café, o café especial.
Fiz meus planos para ter uma marca própria de cafés, não pela vaidade de um selo na embalagem criando a Hub Natural Cafés Brasileiros, mas por poder reunir alguns elos dessa cadeia de consumo, usando meu prazer em reunir pessoas em volta da mesa.
Essas ações envolveram comprar nanolotes de café cru/café verde e torrar café como um louco, para obter respostas as minhas dúvidas das leituras de torra.
Das provas de café ao longo destes anos e para aproveitar o período de home office.
Possibilitado pela ausência de pessoas na torrefação que podia usar o equipamento devido a baixa de demanda na pandemia, fiz muitos cuppings das minhas torras.
A sobra de café em casa, me abriu outra possibilidade e oportunidade que aproveitei que foi de vender os cafés que estava torrando para uma cafeteria que abriu em meio a pandemia em Curitiba(@fugacafe).
Uma cafeteria de terceira onda, com um perfil de público estritamente de café especial e alternativo, é tocada por um barista muito querido e merece todo reconhecimento pelo empreendedorismo em meio a Pandemia da Covid-19.
Café é reunião
Se você me conhece sabe o quanto gosto de reunir meus amigos mais próximos em torno de uma mesa de refeição, e se tiver oportunidade, preparar um bom café contando sua história e do produtor.
No começo da pandemia conheci alguns produtores de café num grupo do qual faço parte. e alguns destes produtores tinham dúvidas sobre o mercado, se teriam saída caso conseguissem produzir cafés especiais.
Um caso desses é especial pra mim, que é o Gleisson Christo Romão e a companheira Sílvia, que optaram se mudar pra roça dos pais, primeiro para estar próximo do pai e para evitar riscos a saúde estando na cidade.
O sítio se chama Maria do Carmo em homenagem a mãe do produtor, ela deixou essa vida em 2018 e o sítio foi rebatizado para essa homenagem. O sítio foi adquirido pelo pai do Gleisson em 1955 após ter trabalhado por 5 anos como colono neste mesmo sítio.
Em comum o casal decidiu cuidar junto do pai da lavoura preparando para fazer café especial, mas nunca tinham feito isso antes, lá no Alto Rio da Cobra em Afonso Cláudio não é comum preparar especiais.
O casal indo contra as opiniões dos vizinhos, devido as dificuldades do microclima da região, insistiram em fazer pós colheita natural, se informaram de como fazer isso e iniciaram na cara e coragem.
Nosso primeiro contato direto via WhatsApp foi em agosto, quando ele me perguntou se seria interessante fazer a mistura dos cafés que ele estaria secando.
Foi quando pedi que deixasse separados e que se fosse natural eu me interessava em provar e comprar o café, mesmo que não conseguissem um especial de alta pontuação.
Os dias passam, as horas contam
A secagem do café é uma das etapas que pode colocar a cereja no bolo ou detonar a produção de café especial. E na região do Gleisson o grande desafio é concluir com sucesso a secagem dos cafés, pelo excesso de humidade e frio na época de secagem pós colheita.
Depois de uma safra boa, grãos colhidos seletivamente e cafés mexidos em camada fina por vários dias e estando os dias próximos a conclusão da secagem.
Logo pela manhã recebo uma ligação com uma voz quase embargada do Gleisson que não sabia o que fazer.
É que depois de uma noite e dias extremamente frios o café estava apresentando pequenos sinais de mofo na casca e o trabalho de muitos dias estavam sendo perdidos e a voz que ecoava pelo telefone era “bem que meu pai avisou que não daria”.
Vale lembrar que a família do Gleisson é experiente na produção de cafés na região, mas sem o hábito de cuidar dos cafés especiais.
As amizades contam
Foi aí que resolvi entrar em contato com outro produtor de uma região próxima e que enfrenta os mesmos desafios, mas já está fazendo pós colheita de qualidade há mais de 6 anos com cafés incríveis.
Prontamente o Theodoro Stein enviou um áudio tranquilizando e orientando como faríamos para não desperdiçar o trabalho de secagem feito até aquele dia.
A etapa foi reiniciada e ao final de mais vinte dias os cafés puderam ser provados e o sucesso veio com a persistência da Silva e Gleisson que obtiveram dois nanolotes com 86 e 87 pontos e bebidas excelentes.
E como eu havia me comprometido a pagar um ágio maior ao preço de mercado da região (clique e entenda como o Hub negocia café cru) adquiri o café e estamos trabalhamos o café na seleção manual para fazer a torra de modo que não se percam os sensoriais.
Batizei os cafés com características próximas ao que detectamos na análise sensorial.
O arábica Caturra Amarelo ficou extremamente doce como Laranja Lima e acidez leve, já o Catuaí Vermelho ficou com aspectos de bebida como de Frutas do Bosque.
Este último fez muito sucesso em uma cafeterias parceiras e muitas recompras em nosso e-commerce Hub Natural Cafés Brasileiros.
Perguntei ao Gleisson o porque não faziam antes o tratamento especial e este foi o relato dele:
“Não fazíamos antes por falta de conhecimento, acreditávamos que era muito difícil e eramos inseguros, e hoje sabemos que não é difícil, que como todas as coisas da vida requer dedicação”.
Espero que para a próxima safra em 2021 tenhamos esta grata surpresa novamente em nossos pacotinhos e grão cru para comercialização com cafeterias e torrefações parceiras.
Sítio Maria do Carmo, Afonso Claudio
Altitude: 1.100m
Safra 2020: de Junho a Setembro
Quantas Floradas por ano: 01 florada
Tamanho: 14 hectares
Total de Pés de Café: 7.000 pés de café
Safra de 2019: 25 sacas.
Safra de 2020: 30 sacas.
Quantas dessas sacas foram acima 85+: 86 kg em dois nanolotes
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